I visited southern Spain this winter, driving around the community of Andalucia (communities are the Spanish equivalent of Indian states) and discovered a gem of a city, Seville. The first thing I noticed as we drove into this town that lies on the banks of the Guadalquivir is that it is dotted with monuments. With lovely buildings on nearly every street corner, Seville is a feast for the eyes.
We didn't have a hotel pre-booked, so our first stop was the tourist information office to find a place to dump our bags. There are a host of hostels to choose from if you're a budget traveler (I was) and we found a nice place for forty euros a night. Parking is rather painful, and some areas are pedestrian only. Our hostel was in one such area so we had to park and then walk our suitcases to our rooms.  This is not as bad as it sounds because the cobbled streets and green parks of Seville make for a pleasant walk. As you walk through narrow streets, look up and you will be rewarded. Most narrow balconies are tiled on the underneath, and if you glance up every now and again will be see lovely, colourful tiles. Have you heard of the three kings that visited Chirst in the manger in Bethlehem? Well, a lot of houses in Seville have a rather unique Christmas decoration - replicas of the the three kings are shown climbing up the balcony or window grill, looking for all the world as if they are about to break into the house - complete with golden crowns on their heads.
After we freshened up, we set out to explore the city. Winters are the perfect time to visit this area, with day temperatures hovering around twenty degrees celcius. There are orange trees everywhere, laden with fruit. Throw on a light jacket and set out. Armed with a free map from the tourist office, we spent hours exploring the monuments of the area. You don’t really need a map, it is impossible to walk around Seville without bumping into a building with a stunning façade. The cathedral in Seville is the third largest in the world and was built on the site of a mosque. It has reused some of the pillars of the mosque, so the architecture is interesting. This beautiful building has next to it the 'Giralda' - originally a minaret, converted into a bell tower. I highly recommend that you climb this tower. The view is wonderful, and you ascend to the top on ramps instead of steps. If you get tired of walking (and cobbled streets can be hell on your feet) you can pop into a bar for tapas - this region is famous for them. Bars abound and you are spoilt for choice. A beer or a glass of sangria goes down well after all the walking. Order the serrano ham, croquetas, chorizo and pimientos for a nice mix of veg and non-veg snacks. Food and drinks are very cheap in southern Spain, a welcome relief from the rest of Europe!
Satiated, our next step was to climb into a horse drawn carriage. With a blanket around your knees, the lamp and the lovely sound that horse's hooves make on the cobbles, I guarantee that you will feel like the nobility of old. As a bonus, we had a very interesting guide. He spoke in English (a rare attribute in Spain), but couldn't decide whether he should stick with an American accent or a British one. When he was in Saxon mode he told us that a park was eight kilometers long, then abruptly he would turn on the Manhattan twang and switch to miles. I missed some of the education he was giving us because he made me giggle so much. The carriage is a brilliant way to see a lot of monuments quickly, and pick out the ones that you want to explore in detail later. If you tire of monuments there are also large gardens to explore.
In the night though, there is only one thing to do. You are in the birthplace of the flamenco and you have to experience the magic. I would recommend La Carboneria on Calle Levis. Don't let the demure red door fool you, step through and you will find yourself in one of the most packed bars in Seville. As you enter you will see a charming room with a fireplace in the corner. Walk through this and you come to the place with all the action. A bar in the corner, a small stage for the performances and the rest of the hall filled with wooden benches and the benches packed with humanity. La Carboneria is one of the few places in Seville where you can catch a free flamenco performance and the atmosphere is electric. The Sangria and Agua de Seville served in jugs with many straws suit the festive atmosphere. This place has its share of tourists but rest assured that it is also very popular with the locals. The performers came on and I was privileged to watch one of the most passionate dances I have ever seen. I didn’t understand a word of the song, but the performance spoke to me. It is a mystery how a woman in such high heels can stamp so hard and not damage her knees! 
    The next morning we set off to see the Plaza de Espana, one of the buildings that had captured our imagination during  the carriage ride. Built in the 1920s to showcase Spanish talent during the Spanish-American exhibition, the plaza is a big half circle with buildings running around the edge. A moat runs in front of the building and you can get to the building over numerous little bridges. All along the building walls are little alcoves, each representing one district of Spain. The alcoves are decorated with tiles and each has a scene that represents the history of a district or some famous event associated with that district. These niches are rather picturesque and I got so excited about taking photos that I poked myself in the eye with a straw from the drink in my hand. This is not an experience that I would advise you to duplicate while in Seville. For all you Star Wars fans, the Plaza de Espana also features in one of the movies.
    Seville is accessible from Madrid, it is a 2.5 hour train ride. It also has its own airport that is well connected to most major European cities. So the next time you find yourself gadding about Europe, make time for Seville, it will be time well spent.
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